The Walker and Hawkes Inspiration

Reproofing a waxed jacket means cleaning the outer surface, then applying a fresh layer of wax dressing. Two steps, around an hour hands-on, restores full waterproofing. A regularly worn jacket needs reproofing once or twice a year; a lightly worn one every few years. Done properly, a waxed jacket lasts decades. Done badly — or worse, machine-washed — and the original cotton can dry out beyond saving. This guide covers the two steps in detail, plus the common questions we get asked. The 2-step process at a glance Step 1: Clean the jacket with cold water and a sponge. Let it dry to the touch. Step 2: Warm a tin of wax dressing in hot water, apply evenly with a cloth, then warm the jacket to settle the wax. Hang to cure overnight. Important: never dry-clean, machine-wash, use hot water or use soap on a waxed jacket. Any of these strip the original wax and damage the cotton. Step 1: Cleaning accumulated dirt, debris, or residues Supplies: cold water, a soft sponge or cloth, a flat work surface, a plastic sheet or old tablecloth. Bring the jacket to room temperature if it's been somewhere cold. Lay it flat on the protected work surface. Wipe the entire outer surface with a damp sponge — work in small circles, top to bottom. Focus on collar, cuffs, pockets and hem — where dirt collects. Don't soak it. The aim is to lift surface dirt, not to wash the cotton. Let the jacket air-dry to the touch before moving to step 2. About 20-30 minutes in a warm room. Step 2: Apply a fresh layer of wax dressing Supplies: a tin of proper wax cotton dressing — we recommend British Millerain Original Wax, a clean cloth or sponge, a bowl of hot water, a warm room. Stand the closed tin of wax in a bowl of hot (not boiling) water for 10 minutes. The wax melts to a liquid consistency. Open the tin. Dip the cloth in, scoop a small amount of warm wax. Apply in even strokes across the jacket — work one panel at a time. Less is more; you can always add more. Pay extra attention to seams, pockets and the underside of collars — water gets in there first. Once the whole jacket is coated, warm it with a hair dryer on a low setting (or hang in a warm room) to settle the wax into the fibres. Hang the jacket overnight to cure. The next morning it's ready to wear. Frequently asked questions How often should I reproof my waxed jacket? Once or twice a year if you wear it regularly outdoors. Every 2-3 years if it sees only occasional use. Signs it's time: water no longer beads on the surface, the cotton looks lighter or dryer in places, or the jacket has lost its sheen. Can I wash a waxed jacket in the washing machine? No. Machine washing strips the wax and damages the cotton fibres beneath. Sponge cleaning with cold water is the only safe method. If a stain needs more attention, a specialist wax-jacket cleaner can handle it. What wax should I use to reproof a jacket? Use a proper wax cotton dressing made for the purpose — like British Millerain Original Wax. Don't use beeswax, candle wax or DIY mixes; the formula needs to be designed for cotton fibre absorption. Can I dry a waxed jacket in a tumble dryer? No. Heat in a tumble dryer melts the wax unevenly and can damage the cotton. Always air-dry. How long does the reproofing process take? About an hour of hands-on work — 15 minutes cleaning, 30-45 minutes applying the wax. Then leave the jacket to cure overnight before wearing.